The Coach & Horses, located on Greek Street in the bustling heart of London's Soho, is far more than just a typical drinking establishment; it is a cherished cultural and historical institution. First licensed in 1724 (or 1731, depending on the source), the pub's name is rooted in London’s pre-Underground past, signifying a former stop for horse-drawn coaches traveling across the city, possibly to the Smithfield Market area. The pub's building, rebuilt in 1889 and now Grade II listed, retains a famously classic interior with original 1930s fittings, including wood panelling and even historic spittoon troughs, making it a tangible link to old Soho.
What truly cemented the pub's legendary status was its
long-standing connection to London's bohemian and literary circles throughout
the 20th century. During its heyday, the Coach & Horses formed a critical
vertex of Soho's "lethal triangle" of drinking dens, along with the
Colony Room Club and the French House. It became a required stopping point for
the city’s creative, often chaotic, souls. The most famous regular was
undoubtedly the columnist Jeffrey Bernard, whose weekly column in The Spectator
was often replaced by the headline, "Jeffrey Bernard is Unwell," a
euphemism for him being too drunk to write.
The pub's infamous atmosphere was often defined by its
former landlord, Norman Balon, who ran the place for six decades and earned the
notorious title of "London's rudest landlord." Balon was famous for
his sharp wit and outright insults, treating everyone—from shoplifters and
gangsters to cabinet ministers—with equal disdain. Balon’s personality and the
pub itself were immortalised when the interior was meticulously recreated on
the West End stage for the 1989 play, Jeffrey Bernard is Unwell, starring Peter
O'Toole as the columnist.
Beyond Bernard, the pub attracted a roll-call of
prominent cultural figures. Its patrons included celebrated artists such as
Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, and later Damien Hirst, as well as actors like
Peter O’Toole and John Hurt. It also served as the venue for the notorious
fortnightly editorial lunch meetings of the satirical magazine, Private Eye,
where cheap wine flowed and indiscretions were (hopefully) prompted. The pub,
therefore, became a stage where London's high and low society rubbed shoulders,
providing endless material for writers and artists.
Today, while the pub has mellowed somewhat since
Balon's retirement in 2006, it remains a beloved institution, continuing to
draw those seeking a taste of authentic old London. Visitors can still enjoy
traditional pub offerings: a variety of cask ales (such as Fuller's London
Pride), craft beers, wines, and spirits. For food, the Coach & Horses has
had various phases, including a time as London's first vegetarian pub, but it
generally offers classic British pub fare and snacks. It's also famous for its
occasional piano singalongs, maintaining a slightly anarchic and convivial
spirit that is quintessential Soho.
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